IKEA Hack: I Built a $3,000 Cabinet for Under $300!

Written By Ashley Brandfass

Have you ever fallen in love with a designer piece only to be personally attacked by the price tag? Same here. While searching for side tables to flank our fireplace, I found the perfect cabinets. They had clean lines, beautiful curves, and natural textures…everything I wanted. But they came with a price tag of two thousand dollars each. That was a hard no.

So, I did what any self-respecting DIYer would do. I rolled up my sleeves and made my own using IKEA IVAR cabinets as the base. They turned out better than I imagined and cost just a fraction of the designer version.

Why I Chose to Build My Own Cabinets

Our old side tables had served their purpose, but after years of being treated like a jungle gym by our kids, they were falling apart. I also wanted a more intentional look—something warm, modern, and a little elevated.

I had a specific design in mind: arched doors with cane webbing and a warm, wood-stained finish that felt custom and high-end. When the designer inspiration was completely out of budget, I knew I could create something similar using the IKEA IVAR system. The cabinets are solid pine and incredibly customizable, making them the perfect starting point.

Tools Needed

Supplies

Cost Breakdown

  • IVAR Cabinets: $400

  • Cane Webbing: $160

  • Stain, hardware, and finishing supplies: $90

Total Cost: About $650 for both cabinets
Estimated savings: Over $3,000 compared to the designer version

Building the Cabinets

After assembling the basic IVAR cabinets, I started by adding legs to give them a more custom and modern look. I used 2x2 pine boards and attached them in a way that made the base flush with the cabinet edges. This created a sleek, contemporary silhouette instead of a traditional recessed look.

Wood glue was definitely my best friend here. I probably used more than necessary, but everything held strong. To keep parts in place while drying, I grabbed whatever heavy items I had on hand to weigh things down.

Creating the Arched Doors

The arches are what give these cabinets their wow factor. To get a symmetrical shape on each door, I first found the center point, then used a bucket as a template to trace the curve. Super high-tech, I know—but it worked perfectly.

I removed the back support piece of each cabinet door before cutting. This step is important because it makes it easier to get a clean, consistent cut.

For straight cuts, I used the Kreg Accu-Cut system to guide my circular saw. For the curved portion, I switched to my jigsaw with a scroll blade. After cutting, I smoothed out the edges using my orbital sander and followed up with hand sanding until everything felt buttery soft.

Staining Pine Without Blotches

Pine can be a little unpredictable when it comes to stain. It tends to soak in unevenly, which can leave blotchy spots. To prevent that, I started with a pre-stain wood conditioner. I brushed it on, let it sit for about ten to fifteen minutes, and wiped off the excess.

Once the conditioner dried, I applied a gel stain in Dark Walnut. Gel stain is great for projects like this because it sits on the surface, giving you more control and helping create a uniform finish. I used a cheap brush to apply the stain and wiped off the excess after a couple of minutes.

If your gel stain feels too thick, you can thin it slightly with mineral spirits (only if it's oil-based). This helps it spread more smoothly.

Top Coating for Durability

After letting the stain cure for two full days, I applied a water-based polyurethane in a satin finish. I used two different brands—Minwax and Varathane—because I ran out midway through, but both blended beautifully as long as they were the same base and sheen.

I sprayed two coats using my Homeright Super Finish Max sprayer without thinning the poly. The result was a smooth, protective finish that made the stain look even richer.

Adding Cane Webbing

For the final designer touch, I added cane webbing to the arched door openings. The cane arrived rolled up, so I soaked it in lukewarm water for about ten minutes, then laid it flat on a towel to dry completely. This step makes the cane more pliable and easier to work with.

To match the cabinet finish, I sprayed the cane with a dark walnut spray stain. It was easy to apply, but be warned—it stayed tacky for over 24 hours, so patience is key here.

Once dry, I cut the cane slightly larger than the openings and stapled it from the inside of the door. It can be a little tough on your hand, so if you're doing a lot of stapling, an electric staple gun might be a worthwhile upgrade.

Final Touches and Reveal

For the hardware, I kept it simple with small round knobs that complemented the clean lines of the cabinets. I used a laser level to make sure they were perfectly aligned.

Swapping out the old tables for these new ones made a huge difference in the room. The scale, the style, and the warmth of the wood totally changed the feel of this space—and knowing we saved over three thousand dollars makes it that much better.

Final Thoughts

This project took some time, some patience, and a little problem-solving along the way, but it was so worth it. The IVAR cabinets gave me a solid starting point, and customizing them with arches, cane webbing, and stain brought my vision to life.

If you’re on the fence about tackling a furniture flip or a bigger DIY build, let this be your sign to go for it. You don’t need a workshop or fancy tools—just a little creativity and a willingness to try something new.

Let me know if you end up trying something similar. I’d love to see what you create.

Happy building,
Ashley

Ashley Brandfass
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